Thursday, October 18, 2007
Cafe Soleil, in the true Continental style
Larry Bly
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I've never been to Europe.
Just a few Asian countries, including Korea.
And no, I wasn't in the Korean War, thank you. Old as I am -- I turn 60 tomorrow -- even the Korean War was a little before my time.
But I'm told that this Roanoke cafe, Soleil, has a distinctive European flair, so I'll take their word for it. What I do know is that on my several visits there, they seemed to doing a lively, if laid-back, business. A more recent luncheon there found most of the ten or so tables full and plenty of take-out being, well, taken out.
Soleil prides itself in the "homemade:" pies, breads, soups, daily freshly baked croissants, Danish and other pastries. I recently shared a big old delicious bear claw with my assistant, Kim. It was light as a feather, sporting a spicy sweetness and lots of slivered almonds on top. I could enjoy one of these every day.
The soup of the day recently was French onion -- not my favorite -- but it was a chilly day and this one came out piping hot with a piece of bread floating on top and cheese melted on top of that. I prefer my French onion in a crock, with the cheese baked on top and oozing down the side. This is a much more tame version, served in a traditional soup bowl, but delicious nonete less with a rich stock and hearty flavor.
I've tried several sandwiches, and whether served on fresh rye, pumpernickel, ciabatta buns, whatever, great care has been given to nice combinations that please the tongue. Not mere sandwiches, these seem specially built to please.
My first time there I tried a sandwich with my least favorite ingredient: pesto. It was a chicken Cordon blue with Hearthstone ham, spinach, pesto mayo, and fresh mozzarella cheese. It's a winner, and the pesto mayo may be the ONLY WAY I enjoy this simple, but often bitter sauce. My dining partner had a whole-grain wrap, The Diego, with grilled chicken breast, pesto sauce, avocado, red onions, tomatoes, lettuce and feta cheese.
Someone has shown a little humor with the menu. Half of it is named "Under the Tuscan Bun." I liked it, and it features panini style Italian and other sandwiches.
I have fallen so in love with paninis that I bought my own panini maker last year. I've gone crazy with it and practically everything comes out of my kitchen with grill marks on it, whether they're supposed to or not.
Panini sandwiches are only good if baked with a bread that can hold up to the simultaneous pressing and toasting process. Heartier breads such as seven grain and sourdough are especially good.
There are a dozen or so paninis at Soleil, some with exquisite surprises, like cranberry and Swiss and turkey -- sort of Thanksgiving between two slices of bread. The bacon avocado or even the simple yet elegant CK, which is cheddar cheese served on ciabatta bread, are not overly huge, but very filling. Sides often include potato salad or chips.
The cafe's coffee blend was to my complete satisfaction -- full-bodied and flavorful without being oily or burned-tasting. They offer several blends and decafs as well. At home, I've taken to mixing 50/50, decaf and regular beans to my daily grind. So now I don't know if I should be nervous or not.
If you're having a morning snort at the Cafe Soleil, it might be tough to pass up the fresh-baked chocolate-stuffed croissants, pecan cinnamon swirls or peach Danish.
Lots of luncheon munchers were having salads, which offer great variety: chef, classic spinach, sunshine (organic spring mix), Soleil (Roma tomatoes and mozzarella -- yum), Oriental chicken, cranberry walnut, Caesar, Greek, house. The choices for dressings are impressive: I counted more than a dozen.
The Cafe Soleil's comfy spot in the corner of its shopping mall belies its size and serving capabilities. The menu is ample and the tables tend to turn fairly quickly. There's even a nice lounge-nook with couches and comfy furniture for reading or enjoying a few quiet moments with some chai-tea, lemonade, Italian soda, Pellegrino, a smoothie or a frappe.
The wait-staff, while young (aren't they all?) was attentive and actually very friendly and pleasant. The open kitchen is fun to watch as they create sandwiches, paninis and wraps. A man who I assumed to be one of the owners came around to every table to make sure that all was to our satisfaction. He actually seemed to care!
If you're heading toward Hollins on Williamson, you'll have to make a left at the stop light onto Peter's Creek Road, then an immediate left into the shopping center. Those coming in the other direction have easier access to the lot.
Roanoke's restaurant scene is really growing fast. I am just discovering this restaurant; they've already built a following.
CAFE' SOLEIL
Market Square North
7214 Williamson Road
Roanoke, Va.
540-777-4563
