Thursday, July 12, 2007
A Staunton tradition for 35 years
Larry Bly
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Staunton is one of those Shenandoah Valley towns that's always been a part of my life. It's a charming place, full of history, wonderful old buildings, nice folks. Its a town where my ad agency has done plenty of business through the years, and where a handful of friends reside. So it's surprising to me that there are little jewels that I've yet to discover -- right on the main drag.
Beverley Street is just one such thoroughfare. Maybe my friends are too snooty to take me to places like The Beverley Restaurant, but somehow it has eluded me these many years -- until recently, that is.
I was making my way back from Charlottesville the long way and came into Staunton via the back roads. Being in that frame of mind, I decided that I'd avoid the chain restaurants that now dot the area. I'd also avoid the traditional restaurants that I've always liked: the Train Station, the Italian restaurant, even Wright's Dairy Rite (one of my very favorite eateries in Staunton).
Nope, this time I'd seek out some little hole in the wall that I'd missed all of these years. There it was, right on the main street.
The Beverley Restaurant could be far more interesting, given its historic location in a fine old building. All attempts at modernizing the place have merely covered up the interesting appointments that once adorned this address. I know this because there are old photos on the wall that tell of more interesting times. The original booths and floors and other wood have been replaced and it's a shame; perhaps too worn to be retained.
However, the food makes up for its historic shortcomings. The Beverley is not fine dining. What it is is just plain good home cooking and lots of it.
As I made my way to a table I noticed something large and puffy on the back buffet. I assumed it must be some kind of bread, as they make their own yeast rolls here. Upon closer inspection, I realized that I was looking at a half dozen homemade pies with real meringue piled six inches high on top each. I had never seen such pie-high meringue in my life!
Instantly I knew that there WOULD BE room for dessert. My dining partner and I divided it up: he took the lemon meringue and I took the homemade coconut cream. Look out Mrs. Rowe's, there's another great pie-maker in town!
Seldom do I begin a food article with desserts. But for my money, it was the highlight of my meal there -- maybe even the highlight of my trip there. And at $2.25 for a piece, it's the best kept secret around.
The Beverley Restaurant offers daily luncheon and dinner specials, though dinner downtown is an early affair. I think you can order up until 7 p.m. or so. Anything after that's considered a midnight snack, apparently.
Breakfast is served all day. There's even an "English Tea" from 3-5p.m., although the exact days were scratched out on the menu.
They claim "The best Sweets in Town" and the day I was there, that included (in addition to the pies) an oven-full of cakes that were being baked while we dined. I know this because a dear sweet lady was leaving the kitchen, and said to her staff: "Don't forget that oven-full of cakes that need to come out soon. Please don't burn them."
I had the roast beef with two veggies -- real homemade potato salad that's rich and creamy -- and homemade cole slaw, full of freshly chopped cabbage and carrots. You couldn't do this meal at home for $7.50! Same with my friend's daily fish special, which was slightly more expensive, but also served with applesauce and onion rings. It was a baked flounder, which really was baked. Restaurants often fry it or put it under the broiler and say it's baked. This was the real deal.
The Beverley has lots of sandwiches, all served on fresh-baked bread, even homemade buns, and served with choice of French fries or onion rings. Choose a super sub, a Reuben, hot roast beef sandwiches with brown gravy, a double-decker burger with all the trimmings, baked ham, tuna or chicken salad, egg salad (homemade to order), club sandwich, pimento cheese, grilled cheese, BLT or sliced roast beef. The pimento cheese is their very own, by the way.
The folks at The Beverley don't waste a lot of money on printing, so the menu has little dotted lines where the price should be and someone has dutifully penciled-in every one, just in case it should change by midafternoon. Actually they use a pen; otherwise you'd be changing their prices for them.
Breakfasts are simple enough and run less than a quarter-menu page: omelets to order, up to five items. I assume they'll do eggs to order as well, but the menu doesn't say that.
I just had to try a cup of the day's soup, a hearty beef vegetable. A cup will set you back all of $1.95! I've had no better in my own home and I've always prided myself in my homemade beef veggie soups.
For those needing a "lite" meal, there are three items: boneless chicken breast or baked flounder or something called a "Diet Omelette" -- sauteed mushrooms, green peppers and onions with three eggs. I'll stick to the old fattening fare, thank you. When you cook this good, eating "lite" seems a sin.
Other "seafood," aside from the flounder, tends toward the pre-packaged and pre-breaded -- shrimp and crab cakes. For me, I go for the veal cutlets or hamburger steaks or the roast beef. I'll save my seafood cravings for a less landlocked venue. Which reminds me that I'll soon be off on vacation to the Chesapeake Bay with fresh seafood dishes galore.
The Beverley service is friendly, if no-nonsense. The food is basic but satisfying. You won't leave hungry and even if you did, you could just order another whole meal and still not break the budget.
Some advice: On your way in or out of the Beverley, take a moment to look up. You see some of the most beautiful architecture imaginable. It's outstanding!
The Beverley Restaurant
12 East Beverley St.
Staunton, Va. 24401
540-886-4317
