Wednesday, June 20, 2007
Blue Light Grill makes for exciting dining in Cville
Larry Bly
Larry Bly has plenty on his plate these days. He's got two TV shows on Cox Cable Roanoke. Click ahead for details and showtimes.
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I attended a great show last weekend at the Pavilion at the end of the pedestrian mall in downtown Charlottesville. The show opened with k.d. lang, followed by Lyle Lovett and a huge band. I stayed at the Omni, which allowed me the pleasure of walking out the back door, stroll the mall, eat the food, take in the theater, and enjoy a live outdoor concert without ever getting into a car.
They've found just the right combinations to make dining, shopping and entertainment come together. Roanoke could learn a great deal about what its downtown City Market could be -- if we could get past the posturing and finger-pointing. We could learn a lot about what a pavilion could bring to Roanoke in the right location and the right size.
Some of the restaurants on the Charlottesville mall offer pre-theater menus, which gets you in and out in plenty of time for the show. I decided that the Blue Light Grill & Raw Bar was the place for me and I definitely did not make a bad decision. After calling in my reservation only hours beforehand, they had a table waiting for me at 5:30. Although I did not take them up on the $30 three-course menu, I managed my way around the regular menu and left with time to spare thanks to an efficient staff even when they're cranking.
Blue Light Grill & Raw Bar is an exciting place: very open, very modern, very eclectic food-wise. The chefs work out in the open for the raw bar as others cook away behind kitchen doors. The menu features Asian delights as well as fresh fish entrees and appetizers. And I do mean fresh!
Every plate presentation was unusual and bursting with flavor. I had the seafood bisque, a tad bit on the sweet side for my taste, but a drizzling of basil oil over the top overcame the sweetness with its lush flavor and consistency. I also ordered a crabmeat cocktail: jumbo lump blue crabmeat with drawn butter and lemon. What's to not like? It was tender and sweet and a heaping portion. A friend had the tuna and avocado pizza, featuring red onion, scallions, arugula and Wasabi aoiloi.
The Blue Light offers a dozen or more different types of fresh oysters (Atlantic and Pacific) from around the country, shucked and served on the half-shell right before your eyes. The steamer bar consists of steamed spiced Gulf shrimp, clams on the half shell, steamed clams, and crab legs. The caviar selection alone is impressive: Russian Ossetra, Caviar de-Vente Osetra, California Osetra, American Hackleback. Anything your heart's desire, from $148 per ounce on down to $40 per ounce. I passed on the cavier, wishing to turn my attentions elsewhere.
My entree was sea scallops and clams over spinach linguini with bacon-garlic sauce and crispy eggplant -- a really big piece perched on top of it all. The sauce was a bit more bacon than garlic, but I'm not complaining. The sea scallops were huge, perfectly grilled, tender and delicious.
The spinach linguini could easily have overpowered the clams and scallops, but the flavors were perfectly balanced. The bowl was so large that I could not finish the serving. Perhaps all of the tastings and appetizers affected my appetite. I had a real desire to try things. Every presentation was worthy of a look-see as it went past my booth.
My dining partner had the special: halibut with risotto. I gave the fluffy white meat a try. This was a beautiful piece of fish, prepared just right and finished off with a great sauce. And there are many sauces that make will excite your taste buds: basil, bacon garlic, red curry sauce, to name a few.
Other entrees listed: grilled Norwegian salmon, Dungeness crab cakes, big-eye tuna, citrus crusted monkfish, rib eye steak, roasted Virginia trout, grilled Hawaiian wahoo (how appropriate!), Chinese mustard-glazed pork shank, and portabella mushroom fricassee.
Sides offered: herb spaetzle, fingerling potatoes, coconut-lemongrass risotto, scallion fried rice, wok tossed spinach.
Reed Anderson, executive chef, and Mike Hollar, sous chef, have a flair for food. More importantly, they've created a menu that's exciting in every way. Nothing ordinary comes from this kitchen. Considering that this is really fresh seafood, the prices aren't bad either. Entrees range from $16 on up to around $30, depending on the complexity of the dish and availability of the fish.
There are salads as well, very reasonably priced, $5-$7. But it's what you can pile on the brings the price up -- the enticing choices are yours: big eye tuna, grilled chicken, shrimp, crab, and crispy tofu. Oh, and you may want to try the chilled soba noodles with snow peas, kaiware sprouts, and sesame dressing. Sounds yummy.
The service is attentive and sharp and the food comes out with timely pacing. Nothing is rushed. The drink and food service are nearly perfect. We had mixed beverages, but the wine selection is worthy of mention. During the warm months, you may dine either inside or outside on the mall. It's fun to watch the passing crowd outside or the kitchen and bar activity inside.
Charlottesville has always been one of my favorite places to visit, and the combination of a great show and fine dining made it memorable this time around.
Blue Light Grill & Raw Bar
120 East Main St.
Charlottesville, Va.
(434) 295-1223
