Thursday, March 29, 2007
A treasure discovered near Woodstock
Larry Bly
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I recently got back home, driving up the valley to Woodstock, to visit a dear old sick aunt. Shenandoah County, like most places, is growing by leaps and bounds, including dining options. Especially the "fine dining" options, which hardly existed when I was growing up. We counted the Hotel Strasburg and Wayside Inn among the few upscale restaurants available within a short driving distance.
One, by the name of River d' Inn, has existed for while now, but I had never taken time to go there until recently. My family and I found ourselves with a unusually warm March day and an afternoon with no agenda. I requested that they take me there. The drive is scenic, passing old farms and the remnants of a sawmill or feed mill on the Shenandoah River. We crossed low-slung bridges with no side rails (very exciting), and discovered old family farms with open fields.
As you snake along the Shenandoah River (you always have to "snake" around rivers), you come to a lovely spot with a simple farmhouse that has been upgraded to look more like a Victorian house instead. Upgraded out of necessity, no doubt, for the original structure nearly burned to the ground a few years ago. So I guess it's sort of been reinvented to better fit its new life as a bed and breakfast and fine dining establishment. It's a great party place, too, with large open spaces both inside and out for weddings or business meetings.
Upon our arrival on the front porch, we were greeted and then guided to the lovely Victorian dining room -- one of several -- featuring frilly curtains with more matching bric-a-brac than should be legal. But it's a nice spot and on that late weekday afternoon, we were the only ones there. This made the kitchen a tad slow, but you can be sure that everything came out fresh and hot. And all at once: soups, salads, entrees. My cup of soup became a heaping bowl, but I'm not complaining as it appeared to have been made to order.
The chef's featured soup was a very thick tomato basil -- hearty with a fresh basil flavor that was not overdone, which is easy to do when flinging herbs around the kitchen.
I opted for the fettuccini alfredo with grilled chicken under a light, freshly prepared sauce. My family chose more mundane fare: thick and juicy burger; a fish and chips entree of filets fried golden brown and set on a "nest" of shoestring potatoes; my cousin had a heaping fresh salad.
River d' Inn is capable of presenting some very nice entrees. Scallops mornay, Creole barbecued shrimp and rosemary potato bisque are examples of just a few appetizers.
Heck, when I was growing up in the valley, no one had ever heard of an appetizer. You just sat down and ate everything in sight all at once.
River d' Inn offers a Wednesday-Thursday three-course dinner. A recent example: a first course of either four onion gratinee' or butternut squash salad; a second course of either trout amandine or black and blue sirloin; and a dessert, which might be a luscious warm bread pudding with vanilla sauce and chantilly cream. And don't get me started -- "Chantilly Lace had a pretty face and a pony tail, hangin' down ..."
The chef paints with a pretty big palate, featuring all manner of fresh chowders, seafood items, grilled pork loin chops, duck breasts with brandied fig cream, rack of lamb with whole grain mustard cream, even Thai-style salmon and mussels.
River d' Inn Sunday brunches go from 11 a.m.-2 p.m. for $16 per person and feature what appears to be a buffet that changes weekly with a wide variety of salad items, meats, veggies, breads, muffins and croissants, eggs benedict and "made any style eggs to order," and a host of homemade desserts including puddings, cobblers, brownies and pies.
We've come a long way from the old foot-longs at the local Tastee Freeze, I can tell you that. And yet, when I'm with my old sweet aunts, time sort of stands still and sometimes goes backward. As I was swooning over the architecture of the River d' Inn, my Aunt Mollie brought me back to earth by observing: "Oh, it was just an old farmhouse. Didn't look that good before it burned down. The Vaughn sisters grew up here and rode on our school bus. We all went to Toms Brook High School together. They had a lot of cows. It's hard to believe that there are people living here now, not that I have ever seen one."
I wasn't sure if she was talking about the cows or the Vaughn sisters.
Upstairs you'll find colorful guest rooms and spacious suites, most featuring Jacuzzis and all manner of modern conveniences. The staff is friendly and helpful.
Reservations are not a must, but are suggested. There is full bar service and a fairly nice wine selection as well.
River d' Inn Restaurant Bed and Breakfast
540-459-5369
800-637-4561
Major credit cards accepted
Directions: Take I-81 to the Woodstock exit. Get on U.S 11 north and go through Woodstock. Watch for Artz Road on the right, just a mile or two out of town.
Turn right onto Artz Road and follow it until you see the signs. Or pull off the road in Woodstock and ask just about anyone.
