Thursday, March 08, 2007
Tito's: a touch of Italian with a hint of Egyptian
Larry Bly
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Tito's Italian Restaurant is just down the street from where I live, so I've been there quite a few times since they opened.
The address, 4301 Brambleton Ave., has had quite a history in Roanoke restaurant lore. It was a popular sub shop, then a seafood joint, and last an El Rodeo for about a decade. Years ago when I worked out in Roanoke County, it was the closest thing for lunch, so we went there often, no matter how good or bad; no matter what it was called. Now there are tons of restaurants up and down Brambleton from which to choose. The latest, Tito's, opened just before the holidays.
Tito's serves up pretty good Italian food. While their Italian hoagie is not the most exciting in town, even for the price, their entrees shine. I like their red sauces very much. The seafood specialties have been excellent every time: calamari, shrimp vermicelli, clam spaghetti, grilled seafood platter.
The pizzas are great and freshly prepared, such as spinach and garlic, steak and onions, ham and pineapple. For vegetarians: mushrooms, green peppers, black olives, opinions, broccoli and cheese. The stromboli and calzones are enormous and delicious.
In the appetizer section, there's something called Egyptian bread. It's an unleavened flat bread that's stuffed with butter and lots of garlic, then baked. It comes out looking like a hat. Punch it with a knife and stand back as the steam escapes. And boy, is it good! But get the small one, not the large. I got the big Egyptian bread one day and it looked like a wart hog on a platter. It was more than two people could handle. They also have a delicious bruschette, among other appetizer delights.
Titos is not afraid of garlic, so beware. The place reeks of garlic and I love breathing its air. If you're timid about garlic, tell them. They're very accommodating. Choose from standard sandwiches, subs and salads: grilled chicken, chef, house, Greek, Steak, Milano, Egyptian, antipastos
They do a presentable job of veal scaloppini and veal picatta. I've found the chicken marsala and chicken francais to be most flavorful with very large portions. You'll not go home hungry, I can assure you.
I've also tried, under the menu's "Pasta Corner," the Tito's combo platter, which comes with lasagna and chicken parmigiana and a side of spaghetti and a choice of meat or tomato sauce. The chicken parmagiana was tender, the sauce deep red and brimming with Italian essence.
One time I ordered the baked spaghetti, which I reminded my waitress is often called "spaghetti ali forno." "Yeah, OK," she responded, looking at me like I had just said something dirty. Sometimes the wait staff is a little rough around the edges, but friendly, if not totally familiar with Italian food.
I also think that the choice of "house" music is eclectic, at best. Sometimes it's the music I never wanted to hear on radio. While I don't think every Italian restaurant is obligated to play Frank Sinatra or those awful songs by Connie Francis, something other than obnoxious rock would do. Find a station that we can all live with.
This place does not shy from traditional Italian dishes that many today prefer to avoid. They have great lasagna, baked ziti, ravioli, rigatoni, manicotti, and a baked sausage or meatball plate. They remind me of the good old Villa Sorrento menu and its no pretensions. Just good old Italian soul food.
Desserts are standard and I have no idea if they actually make them: tiramisu, carrot cake, cannoli, and the obligatory cheese cake -- with or without topping. I have no room for this after eating the huge Egyptian bread, the garlic bread and my pasta entree. Just like the Egyptian bread, stick a fork in me, I'm not only done, I've got steam coming out.
This is not a "fine dining experience." Every place doesn't have to be. But Tito's lays out a good, reasonably priced-family type spread of Italian food.
Oh, and my advice to the Tito's folks is: Hire a professional sign maker before you hurt yourselves! The old El Rodeo sign, pressed into use as the new Tito's, has never worked right. Half the lights are burned out. A ladder leading up to the service door is often seen hanging off on the side. What a mess.
Is there an electrician in the house?
And one other thing: About that slogan: "Tito's is The Best For You!" Where'd you get that? Off the side of Carter's Little Liver Pills bottle?
TITO'S ITALIAN RESTAURANT
4301 Brambleton Ave.
Roanoke
540-774-7446
