Wednesday, September 15, 2004
Fine dining at Blackwater Cafe on Smith Mountain Lake
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
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Smith Mountain Lake seems be coming along nicely for fine dining places and the BLACKWATER CAFE is one of the reasons why.
One Saturday night offered four "specials" above and beyond chef Amber Steele's standard menu, each more breathtaking than the last: Beef Le Blue Salad: combination of slow roasted Prime Rib, grape tomatoes, and tangy blue cheese dressing on top of crisp Romaine lettuce. Or Blackened chicken salad, with Cajun spices on the chicken breasts, pan seared and put atop mixed greems with cukes, tomatoes, red onion, and dressing of your choice. Or Filet of Catfish (a personal favorite, whether grilled, fried, or baked), farm-raised fish served with the vegetable of the day and a choice of baked potato, sweet potato fries, or wild rice and a choice of either the soup du jour or mixed green salad or Caesar salad. And is if that all weren't enticing enough: A "cluster" of crab legs steamed and dusted with Old Bay seasoning and served with drawn butter, veggie du jour -- again the above mentioned choice of potato, wild rice, soup or salad.
Blackwater Cafe will probably be changing out their summer menu about the time you read this, if they haven't already, but the menu is long and contains everything from simple pleasures to impressive and exotic items. Choose about any meat: beef, duck, chicken, pork, and a huge daily offering of seafood dishes. A friend had the seared Cajun duck and proclaimed it to his liking, with a plate presentation that pleased as well. I had the proscuitto wrapped scallops -- tender and delicious. A personal problem I often have with this dish is when the "bacon" wrapping is limp, gray, and elastic. The proscuitto gets around this with class.
Two very upscale offerings the night I was there included peppered duck with maple bourbon lacquer (I had never heard this term used with food before). It is a breast of duck, dusted with fresh cracked pepper, pan seared, and covered with a sweet maple syrup and bourbon glaze, served with roasted asparagus and choice of potato, soup or salad, $22.95. The second very special special was a Burgundy braised tenderloin with mushroom scallion cream sauce. Ingredients: aged Angus beef tenderloin pan braised in rich burgundy and wine and garlic, oven baked and topped with mushroom scallion cream sauce, served with asparagus, caramelized onion topped baked potato and choice of soup or salad, $24.95. Earlier specials mentioned were far less expensive, mostly in the $12-$15 range.
Others around me were trying the full rack of BBQ baby back ribs or the soft shell crabs. This has been a very long soft shell season this year. They've been readily available most of the summer and I've had some mighty fine presentations of this crispy delight.
The Blackwater Cafe makes great steaks, Spanish stuffed salmon, Jamaican grilled chicken, Chilean sea bass, Mahi Mahi, and various vegetarian and pasta dishes.
Because the prices are reasonable and the menu so varied, the dining room is filled with everyone from large tables of families to intimate tables for two.
The Blackwater Cafe actually has two dining rooms, one to the left as you walk in and one to the right. I assume one is smoking and other not, but I really do not know. What I do know is they have a full-service bar in the main dining room; they offer a decent selection of wines and beers as well as non-alcoholic beverages.
Because they're only open nights, it's suggested that you make reservations, especially on Fridays and Saturdays. The place was full one recent Saturday, even late into the evening hours. The decor is clean and simple -- the tables separated enough to keep your conversations private unless you wish to be heard. A friend and I got into a lively debate that, while animated, did not seem to bother those around us. We had a great time, despite my losing the debate. Our table of four went home quite satisfied and very very full; the only negative for me being the long drive back to Roanoke late at night. But the Blackwater Cafe is worth the drive.
THE BLACKWATER CAFE
Scruggs Road (Route 616) at Bluewater Drive
Smith Mountain Lake
540-721-4333
