Thursday, January 25, 2007
Pete's Deli is back and the line is out the door
Larry Bly
Larry Bly has plenty on his plate these days. He's got two TV shows on Cox Cable Roanoke. Click ahead for details and showtimes.
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Once in a while someone gets it right. And even better, once in while those someones know that even when they have to relocate, they stick with what works.
Last year a perennial Roanoke favorite, Pete's Deli, was forced from its long-time home in Crossroads Mall. Down through the years, as the owners of Crossroads have made the slow transition from a retail mall to a business office park, we've lost a few good places. The old Catawba Emporium comes to mind. What a great spot that was to sling down a few and have a hot meal with old friends. I thought I'd never forgive them for closing. The Emporium preceded by decades a lot of today's trendy franchise operations by decades by offering something a little out of the ordinary.
Pete's took its own good time, but found a new home not far afield. It's in the same neighborhood, located in the Towne Square shopping center, just behind Crossroads, near Bed, Bath and Beyond.
The facility is a bit upscale from the old restaurant, featuring a nice foyer, plenty of open space, and an entranceway/cashier space large enough to stage a small barn dance. To my thinking, they could put more tables against the divider and just inside the door where more people could be seated, thus helping to eliminate the long lines at noon. There's a huge waste of space right in the middle of the restaurant. But the service is fast, if the kitchen slightly slower than the old one, and the food ... well ... it's great home cooking, just as we remember it from the original Pete's.
I've been back several times just to check out the quality control ... and to get my share of starch during these harsh months. You know, it's important to put on a little blubber during these horrible 50-degree winter days!
I'm a fan of the Pete's Super Sub, a true value at $6.09, featuring salami, bologna, corned beef, pepperoni, Swiss cheese, peppers, tomato, lettuce, mayo and chips on the side. I also indulged myself one day in a heaping bowl of soup du jour: homemade potato on that particular day.
A friend went for one of the standard "daily" specials that remain the same week after week. He had the Monday country-style steak with brown gravy, two veggies and roll, for $5.99. He had them put gravy on about every possible thing -- same great country flavors he always loved. Tuesdays get you baked chicken; Wednesday brings beef tips or beef stew; Thursday is meat loaf; Friday is spaghetti and meat sauce.
Pete's legion of fans followed and old familiar faces were eating old familiar favorites: sandwiches galore, fresh chicken items, clubs, subs, hot dogs, gyros, and my favorite, the hot platters. (You remember them -- didn't they have a hit record with "The Great Pretender"?) I'm partial to the hot roast beef open-face sandwich, swimming in gravy and mashed potatoes. Same thing goes for the hot turkey open-face: none better on a cold winter's day. OK, so I eat them on hot summer days, too.
You can still get a chuck wagon steak, topped with gravy (isn't everything?) and two veggies for only $4.99. Who said there isn't a $5 lunch left in the Star City anymore? You want beans and franks, it's only $4.99. Burgers run from a $1.99 basic on up to the huge half-pounder with the works for $6.39.
Pete's has bowed to leaner fare with a list of calorie-pinching pitas. Heck, you can even get pizzas on pita, lest you have a mozzarella meltdown.
Pete's is open for the ravenous breakfast bunch, offering the realm of eggs, ham, sausage, biscuits, French toast, omelets by the gallon, even a breakfast burrito, waffles, pancakes and all manner of breakfast sandwich combinations. You'll have to eat mighty hearty to top $6.
Pete's is open for dinner as well, though I think it's pretty much the same menu as lunch. They're open until 8 p.m.
The location may have changed but the tasty food remains. It's good to have old friends back again.
Pete's Deli Family Restaurant
Monday-Saturday 7 a.m.-8 p.m.
Towne Square Blvd.
Roanoke
No alcoholic beverages
540-563-2851
