Larry Bly

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It's that time of the year when old Uncle Larr hits the road for weekend vacations -- this one to the very lovely area of New York State known as the "Finger Lakes," specifically the Corning/Elmira area.

I flew up recently to visit my old culinary friend Neal O'Donnell, who worked until retirement for the Corning Co. He was their resident chef, chief cookbook writer, and all-around ambassador of goodwill for the company. He traveled the world with his recipes, pots and pans and Corning Wear; and he taught the world how to use the product. He's also a food writer and (heaven forbid) is probably putting a critical eye to this piece after it gets posted. He's worked with Wolfgang Puck, Martha Stewart, the late James Beard, and the even-later Julia Child. But enough of this name-dropping.

He counts me as a friend, so that sort of gets us all back down to Earth again, now doesn't it?

Neal's also the world's greatest tour guide and spent three days taking me and a friend around the Finger Lakes to discover New York wine country.

While Virginia's wine industry is growing leaps and bounds, nothing can compare to this area for the shear number of wineries that make their living full-time -- along with some wonderful restaurants.

We started at Bully Hill Vineyards and Restaurant. Bully Hill, whose wine is distributed nationally, was the first small estate winery in the Keuka Lake area since Prohibition and is a fourth generation business, producing wine since 1878.

I can only speak for a few of the less expensive whites and cabs, both fine if not overly distinguished. While expensive isn't always better, I can attest to trying a few of their more ambitious efforts later and liking them a great deal, especially the cabernet franc.

What I most loved was the restaurant. Outdoor seating on sunny days is at a premium, though the wait is usually short. It overlooks the Keuka Lake, as far as the eye can see.

The menu features fresh seafood, including lovely clams in white wine sauce served with bread for dipping. Maryland blue crab cakes with hot pepper, cream of sweet potato and squash soup are usually on the menu, depending upon the time of year. They serve fresh entrees and lots of delicious sandwiches. My friend, Neal, had a sandwich of lamb meat which is not entirely easy to come by in these parts. He's still going on about it.

Next we traveled to Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars. That's a mouthfull, to be sure, but a lovely place to spend a half hour trying out varietals of all sorts. We "tasted" Dr. Frank's 2002 chardonnay (just fine, especially in the $14.95 range), Dr. Frank's 2005 Johannisberg Riesling "semi-dry" (I liked it despite my aversion to reislings), a 2001 pinot noir, a 2002 Salmon Run meritage, a 2002 cabernet franc, and a 2004 Gewurztraminer (nice Italian spicy taste). We then waddled to our cars for a nap (of course we wouldn't imbibe and drive!). There's no restaurant at Dr. Frank's -- just great wine.

The next morning, bright and early, it was off to a wide place in the road called Burdett and the Grist Mill Cafe.

Don't laugh, New York Gov. George Pataki recently spent nearly two hours there. They couldn't get him to leave as he was enjoying himself so much. It's tiny, sort of an old store feel, and full of freshly baked delights.

You just have to love a place that bakes fresh pancakes, English muffins, bagels and dog biscuits (it's for the pets). "Bring along your canine pal to the porch or picnic tables for a complimentary homemade biscuit and a bowl of water," says the menu. Proceeds of dog biscuits that are purchased for home benefit the Schuyler County Humane Society.

They have a grill, so you get fresh eggs to order, home fries. They bake homemade breads, scones, foccacia, rolls, cinnamon bread and desserts: cheesecake, fruit tarts (I tried one -- just brimming with big chunks of fresh peach), hummingbird cake, tiramisu, biscotti, cookies, brownies and more.

Specialty sandwiches include turkey, fresh mozzarella, brie (with lettuce, tomato, and pesto), Ruebens (three kinds), clubs, BLT's, grilled chicken, grilled portabellas, Hummus wrap (with lettuce, tomato, cucumber, and sprouts) and warm roast beef. There are barbeques galore and salads too.

Best of all, you're just surrounded by interesting people, interesting foods, and wonderful karma. Did I really say that? It's so '70s!

On our final afternoon of traveling about, we visit the Lorameaux Landing Wine Cellars, one of the more beautiful and popular wineries on our itinerary. Lamoreaux boasts a beautiful tasting room, a stunning view of the grapes, hayfields and the lake beyond.

Lamoreaux Landing offers tasters a complete list with descriptions of each wine and pricing as well. I found their reds (pinot noir, barrel aged), cabernet franc, and especially the merlot to be exceptional to my own personal taste. Please note that YOUR OWN PERSONAL TASTE is all that matters when it comes to wines, so only you can decide what's a good wine for you.

Our final stop on the Finger Lakes wine tour was at The Red Newt Cellars.

Newt is another name for that little gecko-type lizard we see on TV. We did not try their wines. Instead, we stopped for lunch at their highly-regarded restaurant, called The Bistro at Red Newt Cellars.

You can eat indoors or outside, overlooking the vineyards below. A beautiful piece of architecture, the Newt Cellars building is situated high atop a hillside.

It boasts a first-class restaurant, a huge wrap-around bar for wine tastings, a regular bar in the domed dining room, a large dining room, and outdoor seating.

The food is freshly prepared from local producers, farms, orchards, creameries, and vegetable gardens. Chef Debra Whiting, a tiny little thing (don't you just hate chefs who are skinny?), is a delight and comes around to say "hello" and check out your opinions on her food. She offers an innovative menu, offering seasonable foods and regional delights. We tried out the quesadilla (herb wrap, pulled pork, jack cheese, spinach, black beans, chopped tomatoes, and diced jalapenos. Every bite was bursting with flavor. Other appetizers included such delicacies as phyllo triangles with duck sausage, golden raisins, Chard and cheddar cheese with balsamic syrup; brushcetta with prosciutto; and puff pastry turnover with ham, collards, sun dried tomato pesto and provolone cheese with chipotle cream sauce. There were plenty of others, but you get the idea. Chef Whiting doesn't dawdle in the creative foods department.

Our entrees, not that we needed them after the appetizers, included a smoked turkey sandwich with strawberry chevre spread, spinach, and caramelized onions on a foccacia roll. I had a roast beef sandwich with bacon, tomato basil cheese, grilled onion and spinach with roasted tomato garlic mayo on focaccia roll. We passed on wine at this location, simply because we were in the mood for one of their exotic brown beers and ales. My friend had a sparkling hard cider.

In one of my goofier moments, I mistook something on the menu called "Little Newts" for some kind of fried gecko fingers. Turns out it was simply a menu for the little people -- children -- "little newts." Perhaps it was the ale talking.

Red Newt Cellars produces more than10,000 cases of varieties such as riesling, cabernet franc, cabernet Sauvignon and merlot per year, as well as white blends. They're distributed all over New York State and they're open year-round, seven days a week.

While traveling the Finger Lakes, there's a winery, literally, every few miles. You must see it and experience it to believe it. All of that, and good eating too!!

For more information on any of this, you may contact the Finger Lakes Wine Guild