Wednesday, September 08, 2004
Happy Belly name fits
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
Recent columns
The Happy Belly Deli in the Roanoke Natural Foods store on Grandin Road is a well-kept secret, but it shouldn't be. A chef in a large kitchen in the back of the store prepares the food; and you can either eat in the back or take your food to the dining area in the front.
It's a simple operation; basically do it yourself. Except the food prep, of course, which is handled "to order" with dispatch. They use fresh, certified organic or locally grown produce, meats that are free of nitrates and other hormonal stimulants. Eggs are supplied from free-range chickens, and the milk is from local dairy, Homestead Creamery. Heck you feel better just knowing all of that, don't you?
The kitchen can be a little heavy-handed with the herbs and spices sometimes, but I generally found the food to be fresh, delicious and inexpensive, compared to other sandwich places. Sandwiches and burgers constitute the biggest portion of the lunch menu. I had the turkey Rueben on grilled rye bread, done to perfection and yummy. I also tried a side of their homemade potato salad. Mom's got nothing on them, though I won't tell her if you don't.
My friend had the hot chicken wrap, consisting of pan-seared chicken breast with shredded lettuce, pepper jack cheese, diced tomatoes, onions and black olives wrapped in a tortilla. At $6.95 it was a meal. He also ordered a side of the spicy peanutty pasta that we shared. It's practically a meal in itself!
Other side dishes of interest include tabouli, Asian baked tofu, southern fried tofu, Thai tuna patty, rice patty, potato cake, brown rice, steamed broccoli and corn chips.
House "favorites" include lasagna, lamb fajita, bean and veggie quesadilla, beans and rice, spinach and mushroom fritatta, soup of the day (which was a delectable black bean just brimming with freshly chopped veggies) pan-seared chicken salad, portabella mushroom salad and a chef salad.
Frankly I was shocked at the extensive menu, which includes wraps — very popular with the carb-conscious these days: hot chicken wrap, turkey wrap, veggie and cheese wrap and veggie wrap. You can be very health-conscious here without feeling the pain.
The Happy Belly Deli even offers burgers. I guess I thought everyone ate sprouts there, so I was knocked out by the variety on the menu. You can get a big buffalo burger (lean ground patty, seasoned and pan-seared), a Thai tuna burger, (a stretch for me) which is made from tuna, chopped peanuts, scallions, cilantro, bread crumbs, mayo, lime juice and red-pepper chili flakes. For those not into meat there are the rice patty and veggie burgers. One thing's for sure, you can get very brave and try something a little different here. I imagine it's all pretty great.
My friend tried one of their all-natural smoothies, a bargain at only $2.95 (you'd pay twice that at some shops). With such names as Eliana Thrill, Peyton Sunshine, Kiaya Sunshine, Ariel Berry, Wrenna Razz and Isabella Delite, you can imagine what they're like: smooth, flavorful, thick and delicious. You can even invent your own right on the spot; they'll be happy to oblige.
If you want to really get wacky, try some of their fresh juice creations: Louisa Snap (carrot, apple and ginger), Velvet Ruby (carrot, apple and beet), Molly Twist (carrot, apple and lemon), even something called the Luna Martini (carrot and beet). I have my usual martini, thank you.
And if all of that weren't enough, they have coffees, lattes, cappuccinos, mochas, Chai tea and hot chocolate.
The folks at Happy Belly were doing a great take-out business the day I was there recently; but not much in-store dining. That's a shame. With their quality and prices, they should be packed every day. I don't think people realize the extent of what their kitchen serves. One of the great joys for me was sitting at the counter looking into the kitchen and watching my food being prepared. It's more interesting than watching TV most days.
The dining room is up front, sunny and bright, though you must mind your manners and clean up after yourself. It's pretty much self-serve from the point where you get your meal.
Happy Belly Deli
Roanoke Natural Foods
1319 Grandin Road
Roanoke, Va.
(540) 343-5652
Web site




