Saturday, August 30, 2008
Invest in the future: Plant a tree
Libba Wolfe
Libba Wolfe's column appears twice monthly in Extra.
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Maybe you started reading my last column about utility line tree planting and thought, “Don’t need it” and turned to the funny pages.
Maybe you live in a new neighborhood where all the utility lines are buried.
Or maybe you’re considering a new tree in the back yard or the lower 40 where overhead wires aren’t a concern.
There still are many factors to consider when planting a tree. The first one, and I should have mentioned it last time, is a call to Miss Utility, (800) 552-7001 or simply 811. Planting a tree isn’t like slipping petunias in. You’re dealing with a big hole and big roots.
The utility companies will mark your lines within seven days of your call. So much easier than digging into your gas line. Also, 10 years down the road, when your water line needs repair and your tree has to be uprooted, you’ll wish you had called.
When I called Eric Wiseman, urban forester at Virginia Tech, I wanted to talk about trees to plant under utility wires. And we did. He’s a real “tree man” and I picked up all kinds of tips on tree selection.
A tree takes time, care
Nothing creates a frame for a house or a feeling of shelter like big trees. A shady spot to relax. A strong branch for a swing or for climbing. If you’re in a new house with a bare yard, the temptation to plant fast-growing trees is almost irresistible — especially if you’re planning to be there only a few years.
Wiseman recommends a combination of fast-growing and slow-growing trees. Put the speedy ones where you need privacy, shade or wind protection now. But reserve some space for a magnificent oak, maple or sycamore. Call it your gift to the future.
Think of how proud you’ll be to drive by many years from now and recall giving that huge old tree a good start.
Wiseman said there are two other factors for a tree’s stability and sustainability .
One is the age structure. If all of your trees are the same age with the same life expectancy, they’ll all start losing vigor about the same time. Very much like moving into a new house with all new appliances — they all die in the same very expensive year.
Not only should you plant trees over a period of many years, but you also should choose a variety of species. Once a pest or disease with a yen for one special tree arrives, that grove of all-of-one-kind trees will be gone. Just ask the folks with old hemlock hedges and boxwood gardens.
Once you’ve selected the type of tree and the site, don’t slack off on the rest of the process. Your job is to help the tree establish itself and that’s all about the roots. Wiseman said it takes eight to 12 months for each inch of trunk diameter when measured 6 inches above the ground. Think of that if you’re putting a really big tree in.
Dig a big hole — as deep as the root ball and at least two-and-a-half times wider. If your soil is rocky clay, it may need to be even wider and you’ll need to add organic matter to the dirt. You want those roots to be able to get plenty of oxygen and water and spread out.
Mulching around the base of the tree will help with moisture retention, and create a mower and weed whacker-free zone. Just be sure you keep the mulch a couple of inches away from the trunk.
The first growing season for a newly planted tree is critical. Plan on regular watering, even through the winter. And remember Wiseman’s advice on the tree diameter; if you plant a tree with a trunk diameter of 3 inches, you need to make plans to baby it along for three years.
Choosing, planting and growing a tree takes time and commitment. It’s an investment in the future.
As the Greek proverb says, “A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in.”
