Lindsey Nair

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In the kitchen, knives can either be feared or revered.

Franklin D. Roosevelt said "the only thing we have to fear is fear itself," but try telling that to the cook who just lopped off her fingertip trying to slice an onion.

If experience is any indication, she's probably too busy cursing and searching for a Band-Aid.

"Knowledge is power" is probably a better approach for cutlery. Learning how to select the right knife, handle it properly and take good care of it are the trifecta of knife ownership.

But knowledge does not come easily, Grasshopper. Where knives are concerned, home cooks must read a little and practice a lot.

In culinary school it took Steve Alls, chef program manager for Kroger, "about a year" of consistent practice to finally feel comfortable enough with the recommended handling techniques to really fly on the cutting board and steel.

But even professional chefs admit that speed is mostly for show. Rule No. 1 to be a sharp knife user: The knife won't get sharper or cut the food better with speed. So don't be ashamed or intimidated if you can't make the blade a blur when chopping or sharpening.

Safety is the overarching rule of cutlery because if the cook is hurt, how satisfying can the cooking experience be? Perhaps these additional tips will soon have you gripping the tool with reverence.

Knife selection

In a shop that carries high-end cutlery, it is possible to drop an entire paycheck or two on a set of knives. Of course, that's not realistic.

That's why the Sur la Table book "Knives Cooks Love" by Sarah Jay suggests building a collection slowly, a few knives at a time. Debra Cunningham, the knife buyer for Provisions Gourmet in Roanoke, agrees.

Both Jay and Cunningham suggest starting with a basic chef's knife, which can be incredibly versatile. From there, move on to a paring knife and a bread knife. Later, consider adding a santuko (smaller and lighter than a chef's knife), kitchen shears, a carving knife and a tomato knife.

If at that point you've developed an insatiable interest in cutlery, you can buy more specialty blades such as boning and filleting knives, a meat cleaver or cheese knives.

Some knives come in various lengths and weights, so handle several and choose what fits your hand and your needs. Just because someone says an 8-inch Wusthof is the best knife on the market doesn't mean you should buy it if you hate using it.

A good knife shop will let you bring in a piece of food, such as a potato, and try out the product.

While some knives are versatile, others are designed for specific tasks. See the box (on Page 1) for more on this.

"Switching to the right knife for the right task is important," said Roanoke chef Tony Pope. "That is how you hone your skills, by being prepared and having the right tool for the job."

There's nothing wrong with buying a knife block if it contains blades you'll use. And there's nothing wrong with buying less expensive knives -- just keep in mind that the better knives hold an edge longer.

Also, be wary of knives with flexible blades unless they are meant to be flexible (as in some boning knives) and handles that are glued to the tang (the metal extension of the blade) rather than riveted.

Knife care

Many home cooks own a steel, which looks like a long metal rod with a handle.

But did you know this steel is not for sharpening your knives? It is merely for honing them, or maintaining the edge, and should be used every time you use your knife.

Sharpening a blade actually involves removing trace amounts of metal. This is done with a whetstone at a frequency that depends on how often you use your knives.

Alls sharpens his about every six months; Pope does it more often.

It's important to note that the sharper the knife, the safer. I know this seems counterintuitive, but a dull knife is much more likely to bounce away from an attempted cut and toward your hand. I learned this when my knife hit a slippery onion skin. See "Band-Aid," (Page 1).

For both honing and sharpening, Alls and Cunningham recommend holding the knife at a 20-degree angle away from the steel or whetstone, then sliding the edge across and away from you.

Some folks will never feel comfortable sharpening their own knives, and that's OK because it's possible to damage a good blade if you don't know what you're doing.

Many knife shops will sharpen knives for just a few dollars per blade. For your own safety and the upkeep of your most important kitchen tools, the money may be well worth it.

Coddle your good blades by hand washing them, and don't store them in a knife drawer where they will bang against other cutlery. Knife blocks are OK; magnetic wall strips are better.

Finally, do not use a kitchen knife for other household tasks such as opening cans or packages.

"Don't put it on anything but food," Alls said. "It is a precision instrument."

Handling knives

Do you curl all four fingers and your thumb around the handle of a chef's knife? If so, you are handling it incorrectly.

The best way to maintain control while chopping is to curl the middle, ring and pinkie fingers around the handle and pinch the base of the blade between the index finger and thumb.

It is also safest to keep the fingers of your nondominant hand curled under while chopping, but that's a difficult skill that takes lots of practice -- I still can't do it.

You could read about proper knife techniques all day, but that could never be as instructive as watching an expert.

A few businesses in Southwest Virginia offer knife skills classes. To find out when and where you can take such a class, keep an eye on the Foodie Calendar, which runs in Extra every Thursday.

Cutlery has come a long way since the Middle Ages, when, according to "Knives Cooks Love," men brought their daggers to the table for cutting food and defending themselves against "the occasional mealtime brawl."

There have been two big changes since then: Most people are more civilized, and knife styles and uses are far more diverse.

Don't let anyone bully you into a corner when it comes to purchasing and using kitchen knives. After all, if well cared for, a good knife may be your friend for a lifetime.