Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Meet wine writer Dan Berger
Gordon Kendall
Gordon Kendall's column, "Good Libations," runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes readers' questions and comments about wine, beer or spirits.
Recent columns
Dan Berger is one of the most respected wine writers in the country. He is a straight shooter, and he provides his readers with valuable information about trends in the industry.
Dan was the wine columnist for the Los Angeles Times from 1988 until 1996, and his syndicated column appeared in newspapers all over the nation. He has judged many wine competitions and speaks frequently at wine symposiums.
He was named Wine Writer of the Year by Wines and Vines Magazine, and has received the Wine Literary Award from the Wine Appreciation Guild. His books include "Beyond the Grapes: An Inside Look at Sonoma County." Dan writes a national column for Creator's Syndicate and contributes to Decanter, The Robb Report and other respected magazines.
A few weeks ago, I was fortunate enough to join Dan and master sommelier Doug Frost for a VIP tasting at Virginia Tech during the Virginia Vintners Table wine event. The three-day event focused on Virginia wines and included a symposium on how Virginia wines can gain more respect from consumers. We tasted an impressive selection of the best wines.
I was able to catch Dan on the phone and ask him a few questions.
G.K.: How did you first get interested in wine and get started as a wine writer?
D.B.: In the 1970s, I was a sportswriter and was usually leaving the stadium around 10 p.m., and the only restaurants open at that time of night were steak houses. I decided that there was more to life than steak and beer, and found that wine helped all meals to be more interesting.
G.K.: Who is the most interesting wine person you have met?
D.B.: I have met many interesting people, but I would have to say [British wine writer] Hugh Johnson. He started as a horticulturist and became interested in wine by working with the raw materials. Hugh is simply one of the most insightful of wine men, not only a skilled writer and analyst but a wine philosopher, amateur sociologist and raconteur. I think of Hugh as having an all-encompassing personality who is not unlike Thomas Jefferson.
G.K.: Do you have a favorite wine?
D.B.: If I were confined to a desert island and could only have one red wine and one white, they would be Grenache and Riesling.
G.K.: You are not a proponent of the numerical rating system that many wine writers use. Why is that?
D.B.: Wine is a complex, living, three-dimensional product. It has a manufacturing date and a regional signature. One must look at all of the elements in the bottle and the setting when it is consumed. A single number cannot capture what is in the bottle. One must look at the interaction of all elements in the bottle.
G.K.: Many wine shops use shelf tags with ratings placed next to wines as a way to help the consumer choose wine. Since you are not a proponent of the rating system what advice would you offer?
D.B.: Ratings numbers are a crutch used by the retailer, which shows they are already crippled. A description of the wine would be much more useful.
G.K.: I know that you don't like big, high-alcohol, overblown wines that the critics often rave about. I know that you like more balanced and nuanced wines that complement food. When you taste a wine, what would it have to do to impress you?
D.B.: Regionality counts for a lot. A wine should have a sense of style for its region. My proviso, however, is that the alcohol should not be over 14 percent. Once that point is passed, you start to lose regional characteristics. Monticello in Virginia is an example of a good region. That is why you see wineries clustered around each other in that area.
G.K.: In your opinion, what is the world's most underappreciated wine or wine region?
D.B.: Probably Argentina. Breezes from the Andes cool the Mendoza Valley. That helps retain acidity.
G.K.: In your opinion, what is the world's most overrated wine?
D.B.: Napa Valley Cabernet.
G.K.: I read your sample newsletter and I see that you keep your readers informed on news and trends in the industry as well as proposed governmental regulations. Is there anything being proposed that gives you cause for concern?
D.B.: Yes. The TTB [the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau] has proposed a labeling change that will dilute American appellations. It would allow a regional name to be incorporated into a brand name even though the wine may not have any grapes from or be made in that region. That could create a horrible situation for regions known for high quality and is a fraud on the consumer. The consumers should rise up and fight this.
G.K.: Historically, Virginia is not known as one of the top wine-producing states. I observed from tasting with you that you were quite impressed with some of the wines. What is your opinion of Virginia wines today?
D.B.: The wines are infinitely better than they were when I first visited Virginia in 1989. I have visited Virginia twice in the last 18 months and I have seen massive strides in quality. I hope that Virginia wines start receiving the respect that they deserve.
For more information about Dan Berger, see www.vintageexperiences.com/
Gordon Kendall's wine and spirits column runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes comments and questions at gmoney007@cox.net
