Good Libations columnist Gordon Kendall

• Gordon Kendall's column, "Good Libations," runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes readers' questions and comments about wine, beer or spirits.

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In the early 1990s, Chilean merlot had developed a following of consumers who found that particular wine to have different aromas and flavors than merlot produced elsewhere.

Many Chilean merlots possessed the trademark plush texture as well as notes of chocolate, green pepper and violets in contrast to the predominately cherry notes typically displayed by merlot.

One Chilean grape grower had noticed for years that certain vines in his merlot vineyard possessed leaves that turned a brilliant shade of crimson in the fall -- not a characteristic of merlot. In 1993 he invited his ampelographer friend, a Frenchman named Jean-Michel Boursiquot, to visit the vineyard and investigate.

Ampelography is the science of identifying and classifying grapevine varieties. Boursiquot took one look at the suspicious vines and knew that they were not merlot. DNA testing was subsequently performed on the vines, revealing that the vines were instead an obscure Bordeaux grape known as carmenere. Today many Chilean winemakers are producing excellent examples of carmenere.

'The lost grape'

This history of "The lost grape of Bordeaux" in Chile is quite fascinating. During the 1850s, Chilean vineyard owners planted their vineyards with cuttings from Bordeaux, France, which at the time was regarded as the world's premiere wine-producing region.

Carmenere was planted alongside cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petite verdot. Later in the 19th century, the vineyards of Europe were decimated by phylloxera, an aphidlike insect that attaches to the roots of vines, consuming sap and multiplying exponentially, eventually laying waste to the vineyard.

The European grape growers revitalized their vines by grafting their noble grapes to hearty, phylloxera-resistant rootstocks from the United States. However, the Bordelais did not replant carmenere because it is susceptible to coulure, also known as "shatter," a metabolic condition triggered by wet, rainy conditions that cause grapes to fail to develop after flowering.

Bordeaux is notorious for fickle weather patterns, while Chile's Maipo valley has an arid climate with warm days, well suited to ripening the carmenere variety.

Chile also has never experienced phylloxera because its vineyards are protected by surrounding deserts, oceans, mountain ranges and ice. Over the years Chilean vineyards planted with merlot and carmenere just morphed into "merlot" vineyards because the two varieties are quite similar.

Boursiquot's discovery was a revelation and today most Chilean winemakers make a concerted effort to distinguish merlot from carmenere. Indeed, there is some very good carmenere available locally at reasonable prices.

Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year for 2008 was the 2005 Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta, a blend of carmenere, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. "Gorgeous aromas of warm ganache and mocha lead to a rich, velvety palate loaded with currant, fig paste, black licorice, cassis bush and bramble notes," they wrote. They also commented that the wine should improve with cellaring.

I found one retailer on the Internet offering this wine for $130 and imposing a one-bottle-per-customer limit. The examples of carmenere I found locally are more reasonably priced and represent a great value. Not bad for a mystery grape!

Gordon's picks for Carmenere

Available locally

*Prices and availability may vary

Santa Alicia Reserva Carmenere 2008

Maipo Valley, Chile

Great value, $9

Chile's Maipo Valley offers optimum growing conditions for carmenere. Vineyard managers harness snowmelt runoff from the adjacent Andes Mountains to irrigate the arid alluvial soil. Santa Alicia, formed in 1954, was named Chilean Winery of the Year in 2007 by the International Wine and Spirits Competition.

The wine displays a deep cordovan color and aromas of black raspberries, spice and cocoa powder. The wine is lush on the palate with rich black cherry flavors, mild tannins and a warming 14 percent alcohol. Serve with a hearty stew or lentil soup.

MontGras Carmenere Reserva 2008

Colchagua Valley, Chile

$13

The Colchagua Valley, situated between two mountain ranges, is one of Chile's top wine-producing areas. The winery, founded in the early 1990s by the Gras brothers, produces an exceptional carmenere.

The wine displays a dense, opaque crimson color and aromas of blackberry liqueur, toast, herbs and tobacco. The palate is a wash of rich, smooth red fruit finishing with mild tannins and a bracing 14.5 percent alcohol. The sweet fruit in this wine will stand up to barbecue or spicy pork dishes.

La Lejania Reserve Carmenere 2008

Maule Valley, Chile

$9

The Maule Valley is a sub-region of the massive Central Valley and is known for hot summer days and cool nights. This wide variation in temperature promulgates optimum ripeness in the grapes.

This example sports the characteristic deep crimson robe and aromas of spicy cedar and blackberries. The palate is firm and structured with more tannin than the other examples tasted here. This would definitely improve with a few years in the cellar. By then it would be a great match for a grilled steak.

Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Carmenere 2008

Rapel Valley, Chile

$10

Legend has it that 100 years ago, Don Melchor, the proprietor, informed his employees that the area of his cellar containing the good stuff was inhabited by the devil, thus limiting pilferage. That led to the name, "Cellar of the Devil."

Today the wine displays a deep red color and aromas of earth, herbs and red fruit. Smooth raspberry flavors wash over the palate, accentuated by crisp acidity. The finish is pleasant and mild. If you are looking for a wine to serve with pizza, try this.

Casa Silva Carmenere Reserva 2006

Colchagua Valley, Chile

$12

The vineyards were planted in 1892 by Emile Bouchon, an immigrant from Bordeaux. Later, Emile's granddaughter married Jorge Silva and today the winery is run by fourth- and fifth-generation descendants of the Silva family.

This bold, powerful wine coats the glass with a deep ruby layer. Aromas of blackberries, toast and vanilla lead to a complex and luscious palate featuring blackberry and vanilla notes. The finish is soft and pleasurable. This was the best wine of the tasting. This would be great with rack of lamb.

Gordon Kendall's column runs monthly in Extra.