Good Libations columnist Gordon Kendall

• Gordon Kendall's column, "Good Libations," runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes readers' questions and comments about wine, beer or spirits.

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Something about the advent of winter's chill stirs our instinct to seek a warming, savory beverage.

In medieval times, the English upper crust enjoyed a libation known as posset, a beverage concocted by adding ale or wine and spices to boiling milk. The wine caused the milk to curdle, but the potion was thought to be a remedy for illness, or at least it helped the person who consumed it get some sleep. In the days before refrigeration, dairy products were scarce and only available to the wealthy in Europe.

Years later, colonists in America had a plentiful supply of milk and eggs from their farms. Wine was not plentiful, but rum was -- a result of the triangular trade routes. Ships carried, sugar, cotton and hemp from America to Europe, then picked up cloth and manufactured goods in England. The ships sailed to Africa where they picked up slaves and then stopped in Barbados and Jamaica where they picked up rum made from locally grown sugar cane. The ships then sailed the third leg of the triangle back to America where the slaves and rum were delivered. Later, settlers in Kentucky used locally produced bourbon to fortify their holiday libations.

In those days, the British Navy adopted the practice of keeping rum on board as a fortification for the crew. It kept from spoiling better than beer and wine, but problems with rowdy, drunken sailors were rampant. In 1740, to stem his discipline issues, Vice Adm. Edward Vernon decided to give sailors rum that had been diluted with water. Vernon wore a water-resistant cloak fashioned out of a fabric known as grogram, a dense weave of silk, mohair and wool, backed with gum. Vernon's nickname was "Old Grog," and his blend of rum and water became known as "grog." The discipline problems did not abate, and the Royal Navy eventually liquidated the rum rations onboard.

Meanwhile, American colonists were concocting a spiced libation from eggs, cream and grog (rum), which was often served in a wooden mug known as a "noggin." While details are shrouded in history, it is thought that there once was a wintertime drink known as "egg and grog in a noggin," which eventually evolved into the term "eggnog."

Today, eggnog is available in the grocer's dairy case during the holidays, and fortified versions are available at the liquor store.

I have fond memories of my Uncle Jimmy's eggnog. My uncle was a retired Air Force colonel who would produce a great festive bowl of eggnog for the holidays. His version was a rich and heady concoction of ice cream, nutmeg, bourbon and cognac. His mother, a member of the Women's Christian Temperance Union, would always have a couple of cups. I remember her being in a particularly good mood at the time.

Nowadays, there are many eggnog recipes out there. It is worth mentioning that there is a one in 10,000 chance that your eggs could contain harmful salmonella bacteria, according to the Centers for Disease Control. If you want to be absolutely safe, the eggs should be heated to 160 degrees before using. Eggnog sold in grocery stores will be pasteurized, so there is no need to worry.

Make sure you have a designated driver because eggnog's rich flavors mask the alcohol, and it can sneak up on you.

Here are a couple of recipes for eggnog. One cooks the eggs and one does not.

Here's to Old Grog!

Eggnog: Uncooked version

• Four egg yolks
• Four egg whites
• ½ cup sugar
• ½ cup light or dark rum
• 1½ cups milk
• 1½ cups bourbon
• 1 cup heavy whipping cream
• 1 tsp. vanilla
• 1 pinch cinnamon
• Grated nutmeg

In a mixer, beat the egg yolks until they begin to lighten. Gradually blend in half the sugar until it dissolves.

Add the milk, cream, vanilla, cinnamon, rum and bourbon and blend until well incorporated.

Meanwhile, in a separate stainless steel or nonreactive bowl, whip the egg whites until they have soft peaks.

Add the remaining sugar and whip until stiff peaks form. (Don’t beat too much or you will lose the peaks!)

Fold the egg whites into the yolk mixture and chill until ready to serve.

Serve in small cups and dust with freshly grated nutmeg. Makes eight one-cup servings.

Eggnog: Cooked version

Using the same ingredients as in the previous recipe, but don’t separate the egg yolks from the whites. Beat the eggs and the sugar until they begin to lighten.

In a saucepan over medium heat, bring the milk, cream, vanilla and cinnamon to a low boil, stirring frequently.

Remove from heat, and stir a little of the heated mixture into the beaten egg yolks. Stir in a bit more of the heated mixture, and then add the egg yolk mixture back to the heated cream mixture. (This tempering process will keep you from scrambling the egg yolks.)

Heat the mixture, stirring, until it reaches 160 degrees, then remove from heat and stir in the liquors. Set aside in the refrigerator until chilled. Serve in small cups and dust with freshly grated nutmeg.

Happy holidays!