Good Libations columnist Gordon Kendall

• Gordon Kendall's column, "Good Libations," runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes readers' questions and comments about wine, beer or spirits.

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These days, an examination of your stock portfolio is enough to bring on depression and send you out on a skyscraper ledge. But don't jump. Step back inside and taste a great red wine value: malbec from Argentina.

Malbec originated in France, where it is a component in the red wines of Bordeaux and the primary wine in the southwest region of Cahors. The grape, also called Cot or Auxerrois, produces wine with such an opaque purple color that the French refer to it as "black wine."

In France, malbec is susceptible to rot and mildew and produces leathery wines that are short on fruit and burdened with bitter tannins. Small quantities of malbec are blended with cabernet and merlot in Bordeaux to build structure. Early malbec was coarse, earning it the name "mal bec," French for "bad beak." Severe frosts in 1956 laid waste to French malbec vineyards and forced growers to replant more resilient varieties such as cabernet sauvignon.

While malbec produced lackluster results in France, it made history in Argentina.

The Spanish general Pedro del Castillo founded the city of Mendoza in 1561, and over the years large numbers of Spanish and Italian immigrants who were thirsty for wine settled there. In 1868, a Frenchman called Pouet planted cuttings of malbec, cabernet and merlot from Bordeaux. Malbec proved to be well-suited to the Mendoza Valley. The region's high elevations, dry climate, intense sun exposure and sandy soil composition allowed malbec to thrive and produce juicy, voluptuous red wines that have won critical acclaim.

Mendoza is adjacent to the Andes mountain range, and ancient Indian irrigation channels can direct snowmelt runoff to the vines, which would not survive without this moisture. Most vineyards are above 3,000 feet, so increased ultraviolet radiation thickens the grape skins. The arid climate keeps insects and mold in check.

In the 1980s, Argentina's wine industry hit a rough patch. The government instituted a vine pull scheme, which means wine growers received a financial incentive to thin their vines. In this case, 150,000 acres of malbec were thinned to about 10,000. Vintners thereafter focused on quality, and today malbec enjoys a worldwide reputation for being a rich, ripe complex wine with inky color and silky tannins.

Today, Mendoza is home to more than 900 wineries, and Argentina is the fifth-largest wine-producing country in the world, right after the United States, but ahead of Australia with more than 1.5 million metric tons of wine produced in 2005. Argentina's citizens drink the lion's share of wine produced there.

Argentina is justifiably famous for its grass-fed beef. A local dinner favorite is called parrillada mixta, a fire-grilled medley of beef cuts, sausage and other tasty parts, often served on a sword-like skewer. Malbec makes a perfect foil for this hearty carnivore's delight. The wine's dense, plump texture is jam packed with loads of blackberry and red fruit flavors, often accentuated with notes of charcoal smoke, minerals and leather. Beef fat provides a counterpoint for the velvety tannins, creating a rich, satisfying sensation. If you are tired of overpriced California cabernet, give malbec a try. Just come in off the ledge.

Gordon's Picks for malbec

Available locally

Prices and availability may vary

Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2006 Mendoza, Argentina

Altos Las Hormigas means "Ant's Heights," a reference to the Argentine saying "A job for ants" -- humble, patient work. This food-friendly wine displays an inky color reminiscent of oxblood shoe polish. Aromas of red fruit, spice and pepper waft from the glass. The palate offers an opulent mixture of ripe fruit, minerals and pencil lead. Firm tannins provide backbone. Try this robust red with a grilled blue cheese pinwheel steak. $12

Maipe Malbec 2007 Mendoza, Argentina

Maipe was the ancient Andean Indian lord of the winds. A lot of wind hits these slopes, which are above 3,000 feet in elevation. The wine displays a deep cordovan color and effusive aromas of plums, blackberries, cigar tobacco and spice. Rich blackberry fruit on the palate leads to rustic tannins on the finish. Serve with sage-seasoned breaded pork chops. $8

Finca El Reposo Malbec 2006 Mendoza, Argentina

This wine is estate bottled, so the same folks that grew the grapes made the wine. When this wine is swirled around in the glass, it leaves a dark purple coating. Aromas of blackberry liqueur, charcoal and spices captivate the senses. On the palate, the wine displays rich port-like flavors of black fruits and finishes with a mineral note. Soft tannins stick your teeth together. Serve this opulent libation with grilled sausages. $14

Crios de Susana Balbo Malbec 2007 Mendoza, Argentina

World-class winemaker Susana Balbo says she separates the barrels in her cellar into two categories: the signature (read expensive) and the crios, or children. This child displays a deep crimson hue and shows aromas of vanilla, ripe fruit and saddle leather. The wine shows polished fruit notes on the palate and has a lingering, tasty finish. Serve with a hearty pot roast. $13

Gouguenheim Malbec Valle Escondido 2007 Mendoza, Argentina

This example displays a deep crimson color and port-like aromas of grape jam and plums. The elegant palate displays lots of luscious red fruit flavors with a touch of black pepper. Robust tannins on the finish suggest that this wine would be even better after some short-term cellaring. Try it with a creamy cheese such as Brie. $8

Tilia Malbec 2007 Mendoza, Argentina

The linden tree depicted on the label, known locally as tilia, is planted throughout these vineyards. Workers collect the leaves of the tree and brew a relaxing tea after a hard day's work. The wine has a deep burgundy hue and aromas of black cherries, leather and spice. The palate shows refined fruit flavors. Serve with a flatiron steak. Good value. $9

Gordon Kendall's wine and spirits column runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes comments and questions at gmoney007@cox.net