Wednesday, July 23, 2008
It's July. It's hot out. Got Gruner?
Gordon Kendall
Gordon Kendall's column, "Good Libations," runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes readers' questions and comments about wine, beer or spirits.
Recent columns
There is nothing like the dog days of summer to persuade wine drinkers to gravitate toward chilled white wine.
A great choice for summer refreshment is Austria's Gruner Veltliner. The country that brought us the Governator and Viennese waltzes also produces this crisp and cool libation.
Folks often associate Austria with skiers zipping down snowy mountaintops, but the less mountainous eastern half of the country is home to grapevines. Gruner Veltliner is that country's leading variety, and Austrians consume 73 percent of the wine produced by 20,000 small wineries.
However, 2007 marked the most successful year for exports so far with a total of 56 million liters exported, worth more than 105 million euros. The top buyers are Germany, Switzerland and the United States.
Austria's reputation suffered a major blow in 1985 when the illegal additive diethylene glycol was discovered in a small portion of its wines. This harmless additive increases body and the perception of sweetness, but the scandal caused exports of wine to plummet.
The vintners cleaned up their act, and today's wines are world-class. The red-and-white banderole on Gruner's bottle cap indicates that the wine has complied with government standards.
Gruner is produced in large quantities in Lower Austria, and much of what is served in wine pubs is thin, light and unremarkable. The best wine-producing regions are Kamptal, Kremstal and Wachau, all of which are northwest of Vienna.
The soil composition in Kamptal contains loess, a wind-blown dust of glacial calcium deposits left by ancient crustaceans. The soil also contains copious quantities of sandy loam. Soil flavors in the wine yield a distinct mineral flavor on the taste buds.
Many experts believe that the Wachau region produces Austria's best wine. Its soils are composed of granite and gneiss stones arrayed on steeply sloping vineyards alongside the Danube River.
Here, warm air from southern regions meets cool air from northern forests, resulting in a natural air circulator. The variance between high daytime temperatures and cool evening temperatures contribute to wines with dense extract and high acidity.
The Wachau has three designations of quality based on grape ripeness, Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd. The addition of sugar is not allowed.
Steinfeder includes wine up to 11 percent alcohol and is symbolized by a lightweight variety of local grass.
Federspiel denotes wines between 11 percent and 12.5 percent alcohol and is symbolized by a falcon. (Falconry is a popular hobby in the region.)
Wines designated as Smaragd contain over 12.5 percent alcohol and are the region's most highly regarded. The green lizard that suns itself on the stone terraces above the river symbolizes Smaragd wines.
Gruner usually displays notes of citrus, pineapple and freshly ground white pepper delivered on a clean and crisp frame accentuated by racy acidity.
Some examples will improve with age. In professional tastings, Gruners have put pricey French white Burgundies and California chardonnays to shame.
Gruner is a versatile food wine and pairs well with seafood, meats and rich cheeses.
Summertime grilled bratwurst washed down with ice-cold Gruner Veltliner. What could be better?
Gordon's picks for Gruner Veltliner
Available locally; prices and availability may vary
Huber Gruner Veltliner 2007 Reichersdorf
This crisp and fresh wine is produced in Lower Austria's smallest wine region, the Traisental. Reichersdorf is the town where the winery is located.
The wine displays a light greenish gold color and fresh citrus and mango aromas. The wine delivers a blast of white peach and grapefruit flavors on the palate accentuated with tingling acidity and a hint of carbonation. Try it with a shrimp cocktail. $12
Hugel Weine Gruner Veltliner 2007
Niederosterreich
Niederosterreich means Lower Austria. Although it's in the northern part of the country, it's called "lower" because it is not part of the Alps.
This wine displays a light straw color and aromas of pine bough, pineapple and honeysuckle. The palate features intense flavors of lemon and honey, and tangy acids kick in on the finish. A tingling texture contributes to the wine's lively and refreshing characteristics.
The one-liter bottle makes this a good value, and the screw cap is easy to open. Serve chilled with grilled sausages. $9
Lois Gruner Veltliner by Fred Loimer 2007
Kamptal
Aromas of green apples and freshly sliced pears waft from a glass of this straw-colored wine. The style is bone dry with lemon and lime flavors framed with bracing acidity.
People who desire a wine with no aftertaste should try this. Serve well-chilled with oysters on the half shell. $16
Anton Bauer Gruner Veltliner Gmork 2006
Wagram / Osterreich
The Wagram hills are situated alongside the Danube. This wine displays a light golden color and aromas of pineapples and figs.
The palate is intense with crisp white fruit flavors and a pronounced mineral note. Racy acidity lingers on the finish with lemon notes. Serve with seviche. $13
Gordon Kendall's wine and spirits column runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes comments and questions at gmoney007@cox.net
