Gordon Kendall

Gordon Kendall's column, "Good Libations," runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes readers' questions and comments about wine, beer or spirits.

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We have all seen the commercials. A tall, frosty glass of beer is filled with crystal-clear golden beer while the announcer rambles on about things such as purity, clarity, quality, etc. This image is irresistible to the thirsty viewer. Readers may be astonished to learn that some varieties of beer are intentionally made in a hazy style specifically to achieve certain characteristics of flavor and style.

What I am referring to is a style of beer known as Hefeweizen. This variety originated in southern Germany centuries ago and is now being produced around the world and in the United States. The German term hefe means yeast, and the term weizen means wheat. Sometimes the term weisse (white) will be applied with respect to the beer's milky appearance as if an eyedropper full of milk had been added to a regular beer.

Hefeweizen is usually made from a mixture of wheat and malted barley with a ratio of approximately 60 percent wheat to 40 percent barley. After the beer is fermented and filtered, an active culture of fermenting yeast is added for bottle conditioning. This results in lively carbonation and yeast sediment in the bottom of the bottle.

These brews are usually crafted with top fermenting ale yeasts, which thrive at warmer temperatures than lager yeasts. When wheat is fermented with ale yeast, phenolic esters are produced that imbue the brew with notes of clove, banana, vanilla, various fruits or even Band-Aids. Some American brewers go a step beyond this by adding flavorful spices or fruit.

German brewers go light on hops, so this style is much less bitter that a pale ale. The wheat malt is high in protein, which contributes to the beer's hazy appearance. The brews are usually moderate in alcohol (5 percent or so) and are quite refreshing on a hot summer day.

The Reinheitsgebot, the German beer purity law of 1516, stipulated that beer could only be made from malted barley, hops, yeast and water. Some historians say that this was to save the wheat for bread or to protect the interests of the royal family, which had a monopoly on barley production. People still desired the refreshing style of wheat beer, so in 1850, the purity code was relaxed to allow wheat.

Barley is easier for brewers to use because its hard husks form a natural filter when the liquid is drained off the mash. Wheat has no husk and thus tends to clog up the mashing container. That is why wheat beers contain some barley. Some brewers use more heavily roasted wheat and malt to produce an amber colored brew known as dunkel (dark) or a higher alcohol version known as dopplebock. Bock means goat, so double bock has the "kick" of two goats.

Hefeweizen is best served in tall glasses that taper toward the base. Preferable is a 16-ounce glass that has a large top to contain the beer's profuse head. To prevent over carbonation, you can rinse the glass with cold water first.

Some folks like a wedge of lemon with the brew, but it is not required. Do swirl the last bit of beer around in the bottle to get the yeast. These brews are great with sausages cooked over a smoky flame, and their refreshing style makes them a great thing to serve to guests while you are grilling. Just don't be afraid of a little haze.

Gordon's picks for Hefeweizen

Available locally. Prices are approximate and subject to variation

Weihenstephaner Hefe Weissbier Freising, Germany

This textbook example of Hefeweizen is produced at one of Germany's oldest breweries. The color is a light golden haze and thick, white, foamy head rides on top of it. The brew has aromas of clove and bananas and a soft lemony palate with a hint of vanilla on the finish. Serve with grilled sausages. $4/16.9-ounce bottle

Tucher Helles-Hefeweizen Nuremberg, Germany

A light golden hazy color is on display here along with malty banana aromas. Notes of cinnamon and apple are detectable on the soft palate. Don't be fooled by the "malt liquor" moniker on the label. Some states have an arcane requirement that any brew with more than 5 percent alcohol must be labeled as such. At 5.3 percent, it qualifies. Serve this refreshing brew with thick pretzels and hearty mustard. $3.50 /16.9-ounce bottle

Leinenkugel's Berry Weiss Chippewa Falls, Wis.

I am not normally a fan of fruit beers, but this golden magenta-colored beer brewed with blackberries provides stone-cold refreshment. Aromas of blackberries waft from the glass and the palate is sweet with soft berry fruit flavors present. People who find beer too bitter to enjoy should try this. Serve with creamy cheeses. $8/Six-pack

Spaten Franziskaner Hefe-Weisse Munich, Germany

The label depicts a Franciscan monk with a brew. The ale has a light, cloudy golden color and a lively, creamy head. Aromas of lemons, vanilla and spices are on display. The palate is more complex than most with notes of bread, malt, hay and caramel. Serve this lively brew with Black Forest ham and potato salad. Bargain priced at $2 /16.9-ounce

Spaten Franziskaner Dunkel Hefe-Weisse Munich, Germany

Because this is brewed from more heavily roasted grains, it has a dark, rusty brown color and a rocky, light tan head. The brew has rich flavors of malt and pumpernickel bread offset with bracing carbonation. Try it with a savory onion pie. $3 /16.9-ounce

Schneider Aventinus Kelheim, Germany

This is a dopplebock Hefeweizen, meaning that the grains are more darkly roasted, and the alcohol is much higher at 8.2 percent. The brew has a mahogany appearance that is rendered opaque by the hazy yeast. The aromas and flavors remind one of sweet dark bread and caramel. Sip this one after a meal with chocolate. $3.60/16.9-ounce bottle

Gordon Kendall's wine and spirits column runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes comments and questions at gmoney007@cox.net