Friday, January 25, 2008
Imperial Stout a powerful brew
Gordon Kendall
Gordon Kendall's column, "Good Libations," runs monthly in Extra. He welcomes readers' questions and comments about wine, beer or spirits.
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If you think of Guinness Stout as the muscle car of brewers’ creations, then Imperial Stout would be like the custom cars you see at the car shows — the ones with two stacked superchargers sticking out of the hood and 800 horsepower. It has a texture like a liquid fudge brownie dipped in espresso and potent alcohol in the range of 6 percent to 14 percent by volume.
British brewers developed Imperial Stout in the 18th century for export to Baltic markets including Russia. Regular beer arrived after the lengthy and arduous voyage over frigid seas in stale and flavorless condition.
The English figured that because the Russians have an affinity for vodka, why not make a richer, stronger beer with high alcohol to protect it from the ravages of travel. Because hops have anti-microbial properties, they ratcheted up the hop quotient. This style of beer became popular with the Czarist courts and gave way to the name Imperial Stout. Some were mellowed for months in wooden barrels before shipment.
At the end of the 19th century there were 10 London breweries producing Imperial Stouts and Porters. Belgian businessman Albert Le Coq produced one of the signature brews of the day. During the Crimean War, Le Coq donated stout to recuperating wounded Russian soldiers and was awarded an Imperial patent by a grateful czar.
Eventually import tariffs on English goods became so burdensome that Le Coq purchased a brewery in Livonia (Estonia today) in the village of Tartu. The first bottle of Le Coq Imperial Extra Double Stout rolled off the line in 1912. The Bolsheviks closed the brewery in 1917, but it later reopened. The stouts were discontinued in the 1960s.
In 1869, the Prussian registered freighter Olivia, laden with this stout, sank to the bottom of the Baltic Sea after sailing out of London. Norwegian divers retrieved some bottles from the wreck during an expedition in 1974.
A few years ago, American beer importer Matthias Neidhart resurrected this historic brew by forging a partnership between the Tartu brewery and Harvey’s and Sons of Lewes, England. Using original recipes, Harvey’s produced the Imperial Extra Double Stout. The vintage dated brew was placed in the original-style fat, long necked, cork-sealed bottle emblazoned with the historic label.
The primary ingredient for this potent potable is pitch-colored malt. Steeping barley grains in water until they begin to sprout and then drying them out produces malt. The malts are then roasted to blackness and have names such as Black Patent and Chocolate. A significantly greater amount of malt is crushed and simmered than would be used for a conventional stout. This results in greater sugar in the wort (unfermented brew), which translates into higher alcohol in the finished product.
Aggressive hop rates are generally applied resulting in a double whammy of bitterness from the synergy of dark malts and hops. This is balanced by the sweet flavor of alcohol, malt and sometimes residual sugar. The net result is a mammoth array of diverse and intense flavors.
Serve these warming brews after dinner in a large brandy snifter. Grilled sausages, creamy blue cheeses, roasted almonds, chocolates or decadent desserts provide a sumptuous foil. Just don’t forget the designated driver.
Gordon’s Picks for Imperial Stout
Available locally
*Prices and availability may vary
**The two Le Coq items were obtained from Vintage Cellar in Blacksburg
SAMUEL SMITH IMPERIAL STOUT (The brewer, located in Yorkshire, England, resurrected this style in 1980.)
The stout is fermented in large, cool squares made of slate. The color is a dark, opaque mahogany with a rocky, tan head. Aromas of charred grains lead to dry flavors of espresso and slightly burned toast. As my grandmother used to say when serving me burnt toast, “It will make you pretty!” 7 percent ABV. $10/four-pack.
OLD RASPUTIN RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUT (By North Coast Brewing Co.)
This delicious California product displays an ebony color and moderate tan head. Aromas of roasted brown sugar introduce rich flavors or tar and darkly roasted coffee. A copious addition of hops balances the heavy malty flavors. 9 percent ABV. $10/four-pack.
GONZO IMPERIAL PORTER (By Flying Dog Brewing Co.)
This Colorado brew has an opaque obsidian color and aromas of chocolate brownies. I detected flavors of treacle, tar, iron tonic and a touch of peat reminiscent of single-malt Scotch. Copious hops lead to a pleasant drying finish. I love the label with Ralph Stedman’s flashy artwork and Hunter S. Thompson’s quote, “Good people drink good beer.” 9.2 percent ABV. $10/four-pack
WEYERBACHER OLD HEATHEN IMPERIAL STOUT
Hailing from Easton , Pa., this rich, smooth and pitch-colored brew has less of a hop bite than some of the examples described above. I am reminded of a Lindt dark chocolate truffle. 8 percent ABV. $12/six-pack
BROOKLYN BREWING BLACK CHOCOLATE STOUT
While not Imperial Stout in name, it qualifies in style. This brew employs large quantities of malt roasted in such a way that it has a pronounced chocolate flavor. Master brewer Garrett Oliver produces this product in Brooklyn, N.Y. Loads of dark malty flavors and hop bitterness result in a rich and satisfying experience. 10.6 percent ABV. $8/six-pack.
SIBERIAN NIGHT IMPERIAL STOUT (By Thirsty Dog Brewing Co.)
This brew is as black as a Siberian night and uses a fair amount of lighter, sweeter caramel malt to tone down the bitterness a touch. There are flavors of espresso, roasted nuts, chocolate and caramel. One of the most delicious tasted. 9 percent ABV. $11/six-pack.
LE COQ IMPERIAL EXTRA DOUBLE STOUT 2003 (By Harvey and Sons)
This is a taste of history. Brewed in England under the auspices of the Le Coq trustees and Estonia’s Tartu brewery, this is one of the most unctuous beverages I have ever sampled. The thick, black brew contains virtually no carbonation. It tastes like a liquefied telephone pole with complex notes of blackstrap molasses, a velvety mouth feel and a slightly sour finish. Try it in a brandy snifter. A classic. 9 percent ABV. $6.45/11.2 oz. bottle.
LE COQ IMPERIAL EXTRA DOUBLE STOUT 2000 (By Harvey and Sons)
This offering shows what time in the bottle will do for this brew. It looks like the old oil that drains out of your engine’s crankcase. Aromas of roasted grains and molasses give way to flavors of raisins and chocolate coated coffee beans. The body is velvety and luscious with iron and charcoal notes on the finish. Rich, complex and satisfying. Sweet dreams! 9 percent ABV. $6.55/11.2 oz. bottle.
