Thursday, August 13, 2009
Style, but not snoot, at Radford's Claret Cafe

TOM ANGLEBERGER Special to The Roanoke Times
Tom Angleberger knows what he likes. So we've asked him to eat at NRV restaurants and write about them. If you have a restaurant to recommend,
e-mail him. Tom Angleberger
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Claret Cafe
- Where: 1150 E. Main St., Radford
- Contact: 639-2153
- Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday to Friday; 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday; 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday
- Prices: Weekday lunch special, $5. Sandwiches, wraps and quiche, $7.95 to $9.95.
When Pascal's Kitchen closed, Radford's downtown lost a much-needed restaurant -- a cafe where one could go for an upscale, yet casual, lunch with friends or business associates.
Claret Cafe fills the bill quite nicely.
Having moved into Pascal's old spot, Claret Cafe kept roughly the same layout and the same general principles, with a little bit of an adventurous streak. It's not every restaurant that will serve you either tofu or kielbasa. (Actually, I imagine the staff would serve you both if you asked.)
The menu is quite clever and, so I'm told, ever-changing. But one mainstay is the sweet potato and lentil burger. This is not a beef patty that has been topped with fried sweet potato slices. (Although that sounds pretty tasty.)
Rather, it is a vegetarian dish featuring a hefty patty made from sweet potatoes and lentils. The adventure continues with the sauce -- spiced with cumin and curry.
I'm not sure why I ordered it, because I'm not crazy about sweet potatoes or lentils, but I liked it. I also sampled the Taos, a burger made from black beans and roasted corn. That was a little spicy. You'll want a cool side to go with it, like the family recipe slaw.
If such things are a little too adventurous for you, there are a few "safer" options on the menu. There's a grilled ham and cheese sandwich that comes regular or "left coast." The latter version is topped with chipotle and avocado.
Now, unsurprisingly, these sandwiches cost more than fast food -- a $5 lunch special is an exception -- but the Claret Cafe offers something you won't get just any place. The atmosphere, like the food, is fresh and unprocessed. The food is well-made and well-considered.
There's a dollop -- just enough, not too much -- of style about the place, but not snootiness at all. Yes, they serve a lot of vegetables, but they'll also set you up with a brownie sundae for dessert.
Bottom line: The Claret Cafe offers fresh tastes, with plenty of veggies, in an easygoing cafe setting.






